EMP fuse block

Has anyone used the fuse block/switches from EMP? I am curious about the smartest and most reliable way to hook the whole thing up to be only powered when the key is on. I think splicing into that tiny wire under the dash would be not smart because of possibly pulling too much juice. The way the switch is designed you have one 18ga wire for the positive and one for the ground that goes from the fuse block to the battery. I cannot see any wire that is designed to tie into a keyed hot like the old fuse block I had in my S. Was just curious if anyone has a thought or idea that might be helpful. Thanks in advance.

I don't think their's can be wired ignition only.Here's a much better way to do it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-70107/overview/

Just depends on how you want to go about doing it. I think you said you bought the Battery Doctor and going to run dual batteries.
If so then just buy a fuse block and run all you accessories to that and then to the aux battery. Put a 100amp circuit breaker in line and you should be fine.

Like so, just don't pay attention to my wire colors(used what I had on hand)

I wired mine hot with a 100 amp in line breaker for stuff that I want to be able to switch off and on without the key. 2 way Radio, gps, dome light, backup light, horn. Some of this was not switched through the switch panel but used the extra fuse slots in the emp switch panel (Horn) and Ridid D2 dullies. A parts store will have a 30 amp relay? that can be hooked to the switch on and off wire that uses a low current there, but then you run your big wires to the battery, so when the key is on, the switched wire...very little current draw...turns the relay on and allows the larger current to flow to the emp switch deal.

You could wire a heavier wire fused from the battery and then hook a relay into it and instead of a switch activating the relay use the key on hot wire to activate the relay to power your fuse block switch. Then the small under dash wire isn't carrying as much current since it's just activating the relay. Just an idea

RangeRover wrote:

Just depends on how you want to go about doing it. I think you said you bought the Battery Doctor and going to run dual batteries.
If so then just buy a fuse block and run all you accessories to that and then to the aux battery. Put a 100amp circuit breaker in line and you should be fine.

I bought the EMP fuse block with switches, and I also bought a Battery Doctor to run a dual battery setup. I was hoping the fuse block would be on a key hot, but I am okay with running the fuse block to the alternate battery. So this may be a silly question, but other than the isolator, are the two batteries connected to one another?

AIRBORNE wrote:

So this may be a silly question, but other than the isolator, are the two batteries connected to one another?

Nope.......

Did you run a fuse in the wire from the isolator to the backup battery?

AIRBORNE wrote:

Did you run a fuse in the wire from the isolator to the backup battery?

100 amp circuit breaker, aux out to cb then to pos on aux battery.