The Dam Drive Shaft. I am going to fix it.

Chris,

Must be an 08-09 problem. Look at this thread. Mine does it a little, but not to the point of being annoying.

http://www.rhinoforums.net/showthread.php?t=19061

A sheave will not make a difference on bottom end at all. Where you will see a difference with a machined sheave is from about 40 mph on. A stock sheave will out pull a modified sheave from 40-50mph with a modified cdi because it has a lower high gear. After 50 the modified sheave will pass you by. I chose to not go with a sheave because it is not often i go over 40mph on the trail and i dont travel at 50mph for extended periods of time. If you run wide open for extended periods I would recommend a sheave to be able to run 50 and keep your rpm's down.

See that last little 1/4 of an inch on the outside?? Thats where the machined-sheave will get the belt to. It don't look like much, but that little bit is worth 5 to 8 mph.

ridepate wrote:

Chris,

Must be an 08-09 problem. Look at this thread. Mine does it a little, but not to the point of being annoying.

http://www.rhinoforums.net/showthread.php?t=19061

" that when you place it in 4WD it changes the engine timing and that causes the vibration "

Man that is one smart engine to change the timing when in 4WD

Big-R wrote:

ridepate wrote:

Chris,

Must be an 08-09 problem. Look at this thread. Mine does it a little, but not to the point of being annoying.

http://www.rhinoforums.net/showthread.php?t=19061

" that when you place it in 4WD it changes the engine timing and that causes the vibration "

Man that is one smart engine to change the timing when in 4WD

Really............. there's always one in the crowd. When I put mine in 4WD it changes the gear-ratios and opens-up the Wizz-Bang valve causing a sonic vibration, but the wife likes it?????.......................

misterp wrote:

I did not look at the GPS this last ride while driving. My speedo was slow before the new tires. And with the 27's it was dead on. at 40 anyway. I am not looking for a speed demon. But like to ride fast from time to time. enjoy the trail much more. 10 - 20 if my favorite riding speed. I was just expecting more from the new ECU from what everyone was saying. I got it from Hunterworks. First thing I noticed was that the backfiring going down hill while engine braking has quit. Looks like it advances the timing and changes the curve, plus changes the rev limiter to 8K from 6,500. And sets the speed gov to 199 MPH> One of the guys I work with just sold his 660 and had done quite a bit of work to it. He says that I went wrong getting the 700. says you could do much more with the carb. He wants me to get the programmer and an O2 Sensor. Says I can do much more with that over the ECU. Think I will put my money somewhere else though. Looking at lowering the cage for the next project. Thanks guys... Rhino's rock!!!!!1

Misterp , you only need a programmer if you are going to do mods.
like exuast and motor and stuff. for woods you dont need that stuff. or a sheave for that matter.
now as for your friend telling you to get a 660 and you can do more with carbs.
does not know his ass from a hole in the ground , i am sorry to be frank. but.
you will never be able to do with a carb what EFI can do with the right map.
this stuff is all new to rhinos. once ita all ironed out. thay will scream.
there already makeing 700's much faster than 660's now. and MSD has really
nice Ecu comeing out soon. but if you do what we did in kentucky. you dont
need all that. but to each his own.....
everyone i talked to said the clutch and sheave in a 700 was the best stock
for woods rideing.. if you want to race get a sheave..

or just in case in my case

I wanna race..................

ridepate wrote:

I wanna race..................

and i want to climb over stuff......

ChrisC wrote:

ridepate wrote:

I wanna race..................

and i want to climb over stuff......

and i wanna do both

ChrisC wrote:

[
now as for your friend telling you to get a 660 and you can do more with carbs.
does not know his ass from a hole in the ground , i am sorry to be frank. but.
you will never be able to do with a carb what EFI can do with the right map.
this stuff is all new to rhinos. once ita all ironed out. thay will scream.
there already makeing 700's much faster than 660's now.

I stand to correct you Chris. His friend is right. A individuale in his garage can do alot more with a carb 660 motor than you can do with a 700EFI. With a 660 Carb you can go to 686,727,750,all the way to a 804cc stroker and make it work. You cannot do that with a 700EFI motor without a PHD in motorsports technology. The experts are only now getting modified ECU's out and they are only accomplishing marginal gains. Not to mention where are you going to get the larger injectors and then map them out. And no, they are not making 700's much faster than 660's. A little faster I will give you.

wvyankee2 wrote:

ChrisC wrote:

[
now as for your friend telling you to get a 660 and you can do more with carbs.
does not know his ass from a hole in the ground , i am sorry to be frank. but.
you will never be able to do with a carb what EFI can do with the right map.
this stuff is all new to rhinos. once ita all ironed out. thay will scream.
there already makeing 700's much faster than 660's now.

I stand to correct you Chris. His friend is right. A individuale in his garage can do alot more with a carb 660 motor than you can do with a 700EFI. With a 660 Carb you can go to 686,727,750,all the way to a 804cc stroker and make it work. You cannot do that with a 700EFI motor without a PHD in motorsports technology. The experts are only now getting modified ECU's out and they are only accomplishing marginal gains. Not to mention where are you going to get the larger injectors and then map them out. And no, they are not making 700's much faster than 660's. A little faster I will give you.

No marty not true. any programmer with a few maps will change timeing air fuel mixture
at low and mid and top at different intervals. with touch of a button.
and read o2 cincoring , carb cant change for this without manualy doing it.
I know i have been doing it for years.
carb is more complex. jetting is only a small part of a carb, there is metering
vacume fuel and air flow. and your not doing anything with the timeing like
EFI. there is alot more to it than you know. and yes i have heard of speeds near 70
660's are around 63 at best. and the EFI is just getting started. now i grant at home in the garage.
if i guy dont have a programmer not much he can do. but unless someone knows what there
really doing on a carb. best he will doing is pilot and main jet. and still no timeing adjusted...
and the fast guys use a ibusa injectors in the new rhinos..
soon it will be endless. and carbs are obsolet.......

ChrisC wrote:

wvyankee2 wrote:

ChrisC wrote:

[
now as for your friend telling you to get a 660 and you can do more with carbs.
does not know his ass from a hole in the ground , i am sorry to be frank. but.
you will never be able to do with a carb what EFI can do with the right map.
this stuff is all new to rhinos. once ita all ironed out. thay will scream.
there already makeing 700's much faster than 660's now.

I stand to correct you Chris. His friend is right. A individuale in his garage can do alot more with a carb 660 motor than you can do with a 700EFI. With a 660 Carb you can go to 686,727,750,all the way to a 804cc stroker and make it work. You cannot do that with a 700EFI motor without a PHD in motorsports technology. The experts are only now getting modified ECU's out and they are only accomplishing marginal gains. Not to mention where are you going to get the larger injectors and then map them out. And no, they are not making 700's much faster than 660's. A little faster I will give you.

No marty not true. any programmer with a few maps will change timeing air fuel mixture
at low and mid and top at different intervals. with touch of a button.
and read o2 cincoring , carb cant change for this without manualy doing it.
I know i have been doing it for years.
carb is more complex. jetting is only a small part of a carb, there is metering
vacume fuel and air flow. and your not doing anything with the timeing like
EFI. there is alot more to it than you know. and yes i have heard of speeds near 70
660's are around 63 at best. and the EFI is just getting started. now i grant at home in the garage.
if i guy dont have a programmer not much he can do. but unless someone knows what there
really doing on a carb. best he will doing is pilot and main jet. and still no timeing adjusted...
and the fast guys use a ibusa injectors in the new rhinos..
soon it will be endless. and carbs are obsolet.......

Yeah, but............If that EFI takes a dump on the trail, you're done, look for a tow or start walking. I can take a red-gas can, some duct-tape, empty beer-cans and a pair of pliers and get home. And still out-run you................. Mr. Hiya-Bootie

I know,EFI will be all that will be available in the not too distant future and the advancements, just like on the automotive side, will come. But for now I love being "Naturally Aspariated" agh..........say it like Ted Nugent would," the sound of that Rais-tube just sucking in mother-nature" , and sucking-up 700's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh yeah, degree-wheel, they do exist..............

Yes your right pate , a beer can will work.....

if my fuel pump go's out. I will get Bobby D to pull
me back to the truck with my Po Po tow strap..... :(lmao:

Chris....

Any luck on a support bearing Chris?? I was studying the front yesterday. Looks like it would be hard to get any kind of pillow-block bearing on it due to the fact it's bigger on the ends than the center.

I agree with the individual in the garage being able to do more with a carb.... vs. an individual with a regular efi....

now, if you add features like an ecu, a computer controlled air to fuel map, and a knowledge of what to do - the inidividual with the EFI will get more out of his machine.

the statements made by ridepate and chris and shawn sum it up best though....

one wants to race, one wants low end for woods and crawling, one wants a mixture.....

This just shows that these machines can be set up any way the driver wants - to each his own.

rcmass wrote:

one wants to race, one wants low end for woods and crawling, one wants a mixture.....

This just shows that these machines can be set up any way the driver wants - to each his own.

just shows you all ride the basic same terrain and all 3 are different

I have a sheave and roller weights and shims, all in one kit I got from FIX Motorsports in Minnesota. They guarantee it will open it up 5-8 mph on the top. I have not installed it yet, mostly because I want to see what the VDI alone does over the stock performance. I don't want to throw in too many variables at once. I don't want to lose anything on the bottom end, but at the same time I would like to get the little extra on the top. When I put roller weights and shims in my King Quad (same general setup as the Rhino) it did take a bit from my top end, but it brought out more in my low end. Todd recommended not using shims on the Rhino. I took him at his word and was just going to use the sheave and nothing else. I did not get to putting it in while I was home on leave, so now I am going to slap in the Copperhead and see what improvements it does. I may end up selling the sheave and kit.........IDK.

No matter what ya do, them one lunger motors will never be fast or powerful. Sorry but thats the way it is, yes you may be the fastest rhino on the block but no where near as fast as any slightly moded twin. I wish they had real motors like a 4cyl, 1000. Ever seen the video of the 120 mph rhino with the R-1 motor? Now this is how I want a sxs to preform!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ekt9mncSduk

gunny makes a strong point....

it is tough to get these things to open up and compete with the big boys....

but what gunny fails to mention - is that in the terrain most everyone rides (trails) the agility and sporty handling of the "one lunger" rhinos will let it smoke most of the big boys... and keep up with most stock rzr's

a lot of times when riding and racing - it aint who has the fastest machine - but has the ballz to take it that fast, and who has the handling and suspension to allow it to run that fast....

IMO - a stock rhino 700 efi motor with ecu (so no limiter) - with upgraded, suspension, ball joints, steering rack, spindles, axels, a arms and rims - will smoke most any sxs's on a trail. (except for the rzr with the same mods - then it would just keep up with)

that r1 is sick fast - and in the wide open desert that would be the only way to roll - in the southeast - I would kill myself with that thing...(if the wife didnt kill me first when she saw the r1 bill :) )

god knows we could argue this til we are blue in the face...again - to each their own.

Exactly, rhinos or other 1 lung vehicles do what they were designed to do very well which is crawl and climb and get you down a dirt road about 50mph. Its the guys that buy one and try and make it superfast that I cant figure. If you want speed or top end youre wasting your time, when your done with many k in mods, a guy in a stock one with 25" wheels comes in and dusts your ass However a twin cyl sxs will do this too and with way more power if its geared right. Some are trade offs like the razr, they are fast but I bet they wont pull hard as mine or a rhino, but thats fine because they give the owner a good measure of both worlds which is what some want.I bought my prowler because it is lower geared than most other sxs's and will crawl up a tree if need be, it is not as fast but it has more low end which is what trail riding is all about. IMO anyway.

I'm anxious to get a trail report from Foxfire on the AC1000. Everyone would like more performance, but at what cost? So far the only mid engine Vtwin in the Teryx has some serious heat problems in the cab. Also the machines are getting wider and wider, which means more hassles navigating some ATV trails. All of these issues I will have to check out and do some soul searching on before I upgrade to the next sidexside. Also fuel economy can come into play and i'm not only talking about cost but the need to haul gas. Polaris kept their machine narrow by putting the motor in the back and has had all kinds of problems with the intake because of it. Bottom line is these companies are putting alot of resources into trying to manufacture a nimble trail machine that performs. The consumer wants the same but without the hassles of trying to fit it through the woods and without mechanical problems. When you spend 10K on a new sidexside you dont want to be pulling more money out of your pocket for mechanical repairs or have downtime while it's being fixed, and upgrades to make it go the way you want, or you dont want to spend all day long out on the trail with your chainsaw to get through the woods. That will make consumers want their ATV back. (right Gunny) So, right now and until something comes out that magically addresses all those issues, I will keep my Rhino. I do have a dream machine right now though and i'm not asking for much. That is a Suzuki sidexside about the size of the Rhino with the 722cc fuel injected one lunger that is currently in the kingquad. The yank would have one in his garage.

Polaris did address the air box issue in the 09 razr, and kawasaki redesigned the belt housing for more air flow and cooling to reduce heat. It will be good to see how much better these new second year models turn out to be.

I think there is a real issue with Vtwins and the heat in the cab. The Rhino dumps it's exhaust out behind you and it still gets warm in the cab from the dog box. That one header dumping out from the front of the dog box is the problem. Tremendous heat comes off that, I think (1500deg.) I know for 09 Kawasaki put some intake vents in the front top corner of the beds that is supposed to direct air into the engine compartment to flush it out. I'm anxious to hear the improvement it makes.