Got my Dynatck ECI for the 08 today

Well i finally got my dynetek ECU as its called, or CDI
today. these babys are hard to come by for an 08. ordered from
hunter works. i will install it tonight and let you all know
what i think of changes. I also bought a whole tube
of dilectic <--- ( Spelling ) grease. i am going to unplug
every connection on the rhino i can find and put grease in the
connector. I am getting there slowly but surly

Chris....

Good deal, let us know what you think! CDI for 04-07, ECU for 08-09. You should be able to get a program to change the fuel trim so you could adjust to suit your needs or that might be a seperate piece, not sure yet, just starting to study that stuff myself. Looking forward to your findings.

Clayboy wrote:

Good deal, let us know what you think! CDI for 04-07, ECU for 08-09. You should be able to get a program to change the fuel trim so you could adjust to suit your needs or that might be a seperate piece, not sure yet, just starting to study that stuff myself. Looking forward to your findings.

Yes the programmer is a seperate box that plugs into the ECU.
to manualy adjust fuel and timeing. right now its pre set. i was going to get it when i got the ECU its not avalible yet. also Todd said as long as its stock the programmer was not really needed. so we will see what happens. right now it hits the limiter at 42 and even with my 27's it still hits 42. so we will see what it will do after the CDI todd says its should be around 47 to 50 without a sheeve.
with a sheeve he has gone 56 with his and its stock.
i dont think i will do a sheeve. for woods rideing the pros seem to think the stock sheeve is the best one to have for low end power.

Chris.... :)

Yes, I would love to see something on the market to ADD lower end power.

Clayboy wrote:

Yes, I would love to see something on the market to ADD lower end power.

until someone makes gears your not. an 08 and 09 are geared lower than a
07 and down. but not much . i am told the reverse is way better on the 08 than 07. i found a site the other day that explained all changes , 08 was the most extensive changes since the rhino was built. here is a few i remember. complete different moter. motor is lower in the frame. bigger rubber motor mounts. airbox and CVT intake is higher by 5 inches. 4 wheel disk brakes.
lower , low range and lower reverse. bigger spendles and bigger axals. heavier CV joints. 3 more HP. flues in radiator are bigger, higher output cooling fan.
thermostatic control cooling system, and of course EFI.
automotive style park break. beefed up frame where front a-arms connect.

so there has been alot of changes you dont see.
i just hope it all helps in the woods.

Chris. :D

i have the ECU already....got a little more low end and the rev limiter doesn't hit anymore @ 51, but i only got to about 52-53 with mine. Hopefully the programmer will work well to adjust fuel when it comes available.

Don't forget too that Lyle at VDI is working the one for the Rhino. It will be about the cost of the two Dynatek pieces together, but it will be one unit, replacing the stock ECU. It also is fully programmable. You can load maps that others make (Lyle or whoever has the knowledge and a dyno) or you can set your own setting with the map. I have the unit for the King Quad, but did not buy the programmer. Most guys I know say once you buy the programmer and use it once it is real simple. I dont know what you can expect to gain without adding exhaust and a higher flow air intake, but I do know Lyle stands behind his product. But I see that Hunterworks offers the 2-yr guarantee on the Dynatek too. I am glad some folks have bought that unit. I would love to get some feedback on how it works for you Chris. I have heard the stock sheave is good, but the clutch kit I bought from Minnesota has a sheave with shims that ride in behind the inner primary clutch. This is supposed to offset the little bit of low end lost by the machined sheave. I have been told this is a myth, but I did it on the King Quad and I could run around the woods in high where I used to keep it in low to avoid burning the belt. I am going to try the shims and sheave and most likely the Dyna (depending on feedback) or the VDI. Should be more noticeable throttle response in low speeds that way. At least it did with the King.

Well , here is my first review. i installed it. you could do it in about 15 min, i took longer cause i am anal. and fix all the wires real nice. i also put a peace of foam tape on the back of the ECU before tieing it to the frame, for vibration.
well first off i know it adds fuel. cause i cranked it in the garage with the door closed and it fumed me pretty quick , it did not do that before. i did not get to blast down the street as it is late. and i live on a main road. cops come by alot.
but from rideing around the back property on some hills and things. Rub is right . right off the bat you can tell it has more low end power. i guess it advances the timeing as well. it starts to me easier. but its EFI what do you expect... :) mid range is better , the only way to explain it. i have 27's and it pulls as hard or harder than when it was stock with 25's. to me this is a great thing. i dont give a shit about going 60 MPH. i just want it to pull good in the woods. i dont know how to explain it. but tonight setting at the foot of a hill , i dont seem to haft to push the gas as hard as i did before to go up it. if that makes any since. all and all i am pleased with what difference it made. and it was worth the price. i will most likely get the programmer once it is avaliable.
here is a few pics of the ecu and the new moter and EFI system if you never seen one.
one of the biggest improvements i made was a tie strap was loose on one of the CVT exaust pipes . and had been ratteling behide the seat driveing me crazy. i fixed it and now it is so much more quite. its been that way since i got it. I can now say it ant stock no more......

Chris..... :D

Airborne LT wrote:

Don't forget too that Lyle at VDI is working the one for the Rhino. It will be about the cost of the two Dynatek pieces together, but it will be one unit, replacing the stock ECU. It also is fully programmable. You can load maps that others make (Lyle or whoever has the knowledge and a dyno) or you can set your own setting with the map. I have the unit for the King Quad, but did not buy the programmer. Most guys I know say once you buy the programmer and use it once it is real simple. I dont know what you can expect to gain without adding exhaust and a higher flow air intake, but I do know Lyle stands behind his product. But I see that Hunterworks offers the 2-yr guarantee on the Dynatek too. I am glad some folks have bought that unit. I would love to get some feedback on how it works for you Chris. I have heard the stock sheave is good, but the clutch kit I bought from Minnesota has a sheave with shims that ride in behind the inner primary clutch. This is supposed to offset the little bit of low end lost by the machined sheave. I have been told this is a myth, but I did it on the King Quad and I could run around the woods in high where I used to keep it in low to avoid burning the belt. I am going to try the shims and sheave and most likely the Dyna (depending on feedback) or the VDI. Should be more noticeable throttle response in low speeds that way. At least it did with the King.

LT , i can tell you high lifter and hunter works says the shims is a myth, thay say all you
are going to do is eat your belt faster. keep in mind a rhino weighs over 2 times your quad did.
and yes the ECU did make a bit of difference. it revs faster now. i think that is more in the timeing.
as for the sheeve. i think i am leaveing mine alone. i dont care about top speed. just power,
and all i talk to said what was in it worked best for that.

Chris.... :D

One thing that's a myth about a sheave is this, at least Todd's anyway. The belt rides no higher on a machined one than a stocker, it changes the low-end zero. The belt can only ride so low on the primary, period. On Todd's sheave the face is not machined, only the roller-groves, which gives you the higher speed. The bottom-end is the same.
Chris,
Is the stocker mounted right there?? by the tank??? Not in the battery-Box??

that makes since , so if you add shimes your not going to gain
anything. just make the belt looser , in turn make it not last as long..

i forgot to mention , the extra harness that will plug into
the programmer from the ECU , i put it inside a ballon and taped it up.
so no dirt or water would get to it....

ChrisC wrote:

that makes since , so if you add shimes your not going to gain
anything. just make the belt looser , in turn make it not last as long..

10-4 man that is correct!!!! I'm glad somebody understands!!! It already rides on the shaft/sleeve at idle, on the primary. I guess you could possibly gain a little (bottom) if you can get it to ride higher on the secondary, (off-idle)on it ,just like top-end on the primary, it does not ride all the way to the top of the pulley, it lacks about an eighth, which would give a little more bottom. But it may very well rub the plastic-case then.

dang thats a clean motor

That's what I was thinkin Shawnley.

ya , its clean it ant been sunk yet...... :D
in due time.......

Chris..... :)

i cant hardly find anything on mine due to mud build up