Rotella-T 5w40

Any of you that have used this oil in your Rhino in the past, are you still using it? I think I may switch over to it this change.

Hey my brother in law tried this cause he has heavy equiptment and it did not work because it has some synthetis detergents in it and it don't work with your internal clutches they are called wet clutches and your engine oil provides them lube too. My suggestion is yamalube its kinda expensive but its right what the doctor ordered.

DD, not sure about the Rotella, but if you want a Premium Synthetic oil, this is what I use. There is no better!


http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000E2D6PK/ref=pd_luc_mri?%5Fencoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance

i usually use amsoil just a good if not a bit better then yamalube synthetic oil is how i roll

I understand about the wet clutch dealeo and all, but this oil is under consideration for me because of: 1. It's readily available at Wally for pretty cheap and 2. because of this thread on UORC:

CLICKY HERE PLEASE

since when did a rhino get a wet clutch? As far as oil, mobil1 for motorcycles is wet clutch safe and can be bought at auto zone in 10-40 which is fine as long as you dont ride in sub zero temps. amsoil can be ordered online, royal purple can be bought at o'riley auto parts stores. I run the mobil1 myself.

The only syn. MC oil I can get locally is Mobil 1 "racing" 10w-40. I guess that's ok stuff, just a tad pricey.
I'm just so damned tired of ORDERING every frikkin thing. Living in a half little town is great for some things, but really suck ass for most things.

I use Valvoline 4-stroke M/C oil from Advance A/P. I've never been a beliver in the Syn snake-oils.

GunRunner wrote:

since when did a rhino get a wet clutch? As far as oil, mobil1 for motorcycles is wet clutch safe and can be bought at auto zone in 10-40 which is fine as long as you dont ride in sub zero temps. amsoil can be ordered online, royal purple can be bought at o'riley auto parts stores. I run the mobil1 myself.

The Rhino's have a wet and dry clutch system Gunny. That is the beauty of the Ultramatic transmission, and it's superior engine braking.

Been doing a ton of reading on Rotella oils. I've only found a child's handful of nay sayers and bucket loads of yay sayers. So, I'm gonna try it. I know that threads about oils abound on forums, and they usually spark heated debates full of emotion but I don't want this thread to get to that, please. I did read where Shell has a newer formula out for the 5w40, but it's not widely available yet, so I figure our Wally should still have the original formulation that is recommended by all the yay sayers. I'll let ya know how it goes.
BTW here's one of the "good reads" I found. http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm

I had heard over the years that Rotella was very good.

Rotella-T since the first oil change. clayboy is going to get me using something else. Will see how that works.....

My first oil change was at 200 miles with Yamalube 20w40. My second was at 850 miles with 3/4 quart Valvoline 10w40 Synthetic, 3/4 quart Yamalube 20w40, and 1/2 quart Royal Purple 10w40. This is the Yanks custom Rhino mix......... Naw, actually it was partial quarts from other oil changes I wanted to get rid of. My next change will come at about 1500 miles with all Royal Purple 10w40. I got 4 and a part bottles for my next 2 changes.


Also, at 200 miles the front diff and the rear drive got fresh Royal Purple Max gear oil.

DirtDawber wrote:

Been doing a ton of reading on Rotella oils. I've only found a child's handful of nay sayers and bucket loads of yay sayers. http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm

The only issue you need to know is if the product is wet clutch compatable, since yank says the rhino has one. If its not you will burn up the clutch system. So even if its free its a big mistake to use it if its not.

GunRunner wrote:

DirtDawber wrote:

Been doing a ton of reading on Rotella oils. I've only found a child's handful of nay sayers and bucket loads of yay sayers. http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm

The only issue you need to know is if the product is wet clutch compatable, since yank says the rhino has one. If its not you will burn up the clutch system. So even if its free its a big mistake to use it if its not.

Gunny, the rhino does have a wet clutch. The synthetic oil that is not compatible with a wet clutch has an additive in it that makes it even slicker. I can't remember the name of the additive but it usually says something about it on the label.

I planned on using Wesson cooking oil on the next change.

I did my first change at about 135 miles, and I used the Yamalube. Next one will be at about 500 miles, and I plan on using Amsoil just like in the King Quad. I hope to get long engine life from both. I don't sink them in mud and deep water so as long as I watch and never overheat, I should get LOTS of miles.

I am putting a package together with 3 qts of Amsoil and a Wix oil filter. All of my research so far has led me to believe that this is the best protection for our engines and wet clutch.



Winner of the August photo of the month will recieve one of these packages.

Clayboy wrote:

I am putting a package together with 3 qts of Amsoil and a Wix oil filter. All of my research so far has led me to believe that this is the best protection for our engines and wet clutch.



Winner of the August photo of the month will recieve one of these packages.

You guys are confusing the hell out of me. I use the wix and the Amsoil 10/40 synthetic motorcycle oil. Is it bad on the clutch or not? I have changed the oil 4 times in 2400 miles. I dont have any clutch problems......

nocerisdave wrote:

You guys are confusing the hell out of me. I use the wix and the Amsoil 10/40 synthetic motorcycle oil. Is it bad on the clutch or not? I have changed the oil 4 times in 2400 miles. I dont have any clutch problems......

No, it is not bad on the clutch. Your fine.

nocerisdave wrote:

You guys are confusing the hell out of me. I use the wix and the Amsoil 10/40 synthetic motorcycle oil. Is it bad on the clutch or not? I have changed the oil 4 times in 2400 miles. I dont have any clutch problems......

As long as it is a 4cycle Motorcycle/ATV oil it will be OK.

I used Amsoil in the green King Quad with no issues. It has the same basic clutch setup as the Rhino. I plan on Amsoil forever.

OK guys I have been over at RF.net reading all about the synthtic oil. There was a thread that I read months ago that had a lot of good info. Synthitic oil is fine for a wet clutch as long as it does not have friction modifier. Here is the quote I have been look for:

mgt-rhino wrote:

Synthetic oil will not harm the clutch, some oils, synthetic and "normal" have an additive to make them super slippery (molybdenum in some). These oils are marked, energy saving or energy conserving. This additive will mess up your wet clutch, I learned the hard way. The marking is in the lower part of the circle that shows the EPI rating. MY .02

All of the info I got on the Amsoil 10w-40 synthetic motorcycle oil says it was designed specifically for wet clutch aplications. I know alot of people have had good luck with Rotella too. I believe it all boils down to use a quality lube and change it often.

• "I believe it all boils down to use a quality lube and change it often."
  
• Exactly.
  

I don't like paying the dealer lots of $$ for his "nothing special, who knows who made it" oil, I'm tired of ordering maintenance items, I don't really like paying over $10/qt, I do like feeling I got my money's worth and got a quality product at the same time.

I picked up a couple gallons of the Rotella at ~ $4.50/qt and a couple Pure One PL14610 filters at $5.50/ea. So, that equals to about $16 per change. Not too bad in my book for what looks to be some of the 'good stuff'.

Note: The new formulation 5w40 Rotella carries an extra rating of "SM", that some say is not recommended for M/C use, but the 'old stuff' is still out there and is easily spotted with it's blue/silver label. The new stuff has a white/gold label.

Disclaimer: I'm not recommending these items, I have no 'real world' experiences with them. This is just the route I'm taking.