Gimpy's Rock Crawler XP 1000

Before Marty's chop job





After 6" in the rear and 1.5" in the front chopped. Marty made a great aluminum roof and powder coated it too.

CMF customs does great work.

Looks real good wish I could get that done to mine

Looking good Gimpy!

Looking good.

Looks good, so does this mean you are going to want to play in the rock garden?

Next questions;

1.  Do you all unhook the rear stabilizer bar like we did on the S?
2.  Do you all remove the spark arrestor at the tip of the exhaust muffler?

Yes and yes

Gimpy wrote:

Next questions;

1.  Do you all unhook the rear stabilizer bar like we did on the S?
2.  Do you all remove the spark arrestor at the tip of the exhaust muffler?

No & no.


1. Your not going to gain anything by removing the spark arrestor.
2. Polaris designed that buggy specifically for rock crawling with the sway bar installed. I had my doubts about sway bars until I rode Windrock with both mine on. We rode 39 through the rock garden and out the other end and it works very well. Leave it on and ride and see how you like it.

I did get the windshield cut down and installed along with modifying the parking brake that I took off of the XP 900.

i took my sway bar off on the highlifter and man what a difference in the articulation. it might be a problem if i ever rode fast but honestly 30 mph is FAST for me so i am ok with that trade off.

DOG wrote:

i took my sway bar off on the highlifter and man what a difference in the articulation. it might be a problem if i ever rode fast but honestly 30 mph is FAST for me so i am ok with that trade off.

Yep, but the stock highlifter shocks are stiff as a brick. The Rock crawler has much softer springs. Ask Chad if it's a good idea to run without a swag bar with soft shocks

Well on the Highlifter like joe said it has stiffer springs and I did take mine off. Once I had the springs redone by shock therapy I had to put the sway bar back on because of excessive body roll and I do mean excessive. Shock Therapy even told me that I would want to put it back on once I got my new shocks but I thought I wouldn't and it cost me to roll mine on each side at different times. Since I have put the sway bar back on the buggy is a lot more stable. So to answer Gimpy's question i would see how much body roll you have with it unhooked but more than likely you will hook it back up.

I have mine off,but it's a highlifter with stock springs,still enough stiffness from springs to keep it stable at low speeds,higher speeds around corners are a different story

blu-knight wrote:

Well on the Highlifter like joe said it has stiffer springs and I did take mine off.  Once I had the springs redone by shock therapy I had to put the sway bar back on because of excessive body roll and I do mean excessive.  Shock Therapy even told me that I would want to put it back on once I got my new shocks but I thought I wouldn't and it cost me to roll mine on each side at different times.  Since I have put the sway bar back on the buggy is a lot more stable.  So to answer Gimpy's question i would see how much body roll you have with it unhooked but more than likely you will hook it back up.

Was it a goin fast in a corner roll over or what. And of course;

no I was climbing and was on rocks once and ruts the second time. I don't go fast so that's not my problem... LOL

I got 2 miles on the machine tonight, on the road and that new burning paint and parts smells.  Making progress.

You need to get that machine broken in before the Spring Ride.  

Looks great Les......

And good Job Marty.....

Got the rock sliders, new bumper LED light, switches, under hood storage delivered.  Got the rear coated Lexan window cut out tonight.  Just need to cut slots to get the retractable seat belts back in place.

Post a picture of your bumper LED.  

hillbuggy wrote:

Post a picture of your bumper LED.  

The old 12" LED had side of the light mounts that would not fit. I got the new one in that has under the light adjustamble mounts that I should get mounted today. Boy you were right Charles, those tree kicker mounts were a bugger, but I figured it out to leave the cardboard inserts in the holes, with pressure, did the job right.

I did figure out how to do the opening and get the seat belt into the opening.  See the vertical slot I cut below the plastic housing on the seat belt re-tractor.  I slide the seat belt into it then fed it up into the opening.  Works great now.




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