Trick to getting the rear Moose lift??

Moose Lift........is there a trick to getting the top shock bolt on in the rear after you mount the lift brackets? I wrestled that thing and could not figure out how to get it to mount up. I am not an expert by any stretch of the imagination, but I would think you might would have to disconnect the rear a-arms at the top mount of the knuckle to work it in there. Did anyone experience anything like that? What I am saying is it feels like the rear a-arm was at full bottom travel and still was not enough, so disconnecting the a-arm at the knuckle may give me a few more inches to get the top bolt routed through the lift and top shock hole. I cranked my shocks up and it is an improvement, but I still want the lift. I can always take it off if I don't like it.

LT try un-bolting the sway-bar. That will give you a little more droop. Should anyway. I had no problem getting mine on.

Chris, it seems like there is a trick. Dodds, Clay or ChrisC will chime in soon.

ridepate wrote:

LT try un-bolting the sway-bar. That will give you a little more droop. Should anyway. I had no problem getting mine on.

Was thinking of doing the swaybar disconnect anyway to save some weight. I am really heavy with all the extra stuff.

For what we do, it's about 12#'s of worthless weight.

I have a ITI Motorsports front and rear anti-sway boar and love them and I don't see any loss of articulation.

Gotta have the right lb torsion bar though.

Todd......any advice on the Moose Lift?

LT I just lifted rear off ground unbolted stock locations bolred lift right up a little wiggle of the shock and wa-laa easy breezy not sure why your having issues

PS remove the swaybar 15-20mph in the dirt and even on the road body roll isnt pucker factor a little noticeable but not too bad

Not sure either. I was getting frustrated with it after a really shitty day so maybe I will hit it again tomorrow with a cooler head.

ya I had issues with adjusting my rear shock up 1 more notch to support the added weight of my toolbox and couldnt so I just gave up

I did the lift and remeber having the issue you mention. If I remember correctly I just jacked the rear up in the center so both sides of the rear were up at the same time. Remove one rear tire and do one side at a time. The wheel on the opposite side adds weight which helps push the sway bar down. The Progressive Rear shock is a little shorter than stock so it should go OK. You will get about 1" to 1.5" of lift with the Moose 2" lift. If you want more lift put some EPI Heavy Duty springs on the Progressive rear shocks -- that will add 3" or so of rear lift if your Rhino is loaded.

RR, I did leave one side removal of tire at a time. Still did not work. I was thinking of removing the a-arm at the knuckle. I was just wondering if that would help.

Anything to get the A-Arm to drop will help. I did not have that much issue but I have a 660. I guess you could always use 20 or so of the Nylon slip ties and use those to hold your shock spring slightly compressed -- that would definitely work just put them on with a little weight on the shock. Reinstall then cut the nylon ties once the Rhino is lowered and the pressure is off the ties.

Now that I think about it I installed the bottom of the shock first and then the top. I think...

I only disconnected where the lift would go

Maybe I will try to hit it again this evening.

LT if maxing out the shocks is still not raiseing your ride height i think one of two things are going on. One too much weight and maybe you need to go to the stiffer springs in the back because it sounds and looked like you were overloading the spring a lift will help but wont solve the problem of the antisquat you are dealing with. I followed you alot this past weekend and you were antisquating just about every time you were in the gas. Yes a lift will raise the rhino overall but still not fix the anti problem My belief is you have to get your ride height set before going onto lift kit. If your arms are level and you add a lift kit all you are doing is changeing angle of the shocks which is more preload. I might be right i might be wrong but these are the same concept we use when we raced

LT , scrap that dang swaybar crap. you will never go
back to it. and it rides so much better.
Dont be hard headed like Ronnie. pull it off. You will thank me....

Ya'll gotta remember that he now has progressive rear shocks. They have a approx 200 lb low side progressive rate that basically flattens out. Those springs sag bad. Replace them with some EPI Heavy Duty springs and I'll gain 3+ inches loaded.

I cranked the shocks yesterday and it was setting good. Tonight I added the lift and it looks like a whole different machine. I like it. I took it and hit the curb at about 10mph to see if the shocks were too stiff......they felt like a Caddy. I think I am really going to like this setup.

I thought you might have to get hydraulics for your lowrider

glad to hear its all fixed and you like the setup

Pics of the new improved Rhino, please. And of the suspension parts too?

Pics will come tomorrow in the daylight.

How many total turns did you have to go to get it setting good?

i told ya you'd like the progressives, i love mine and so does Noceris dave