clutch, spring

gonna have to put a one way bearing in.should i due a clutch kit or change the spring/does it make any diff.dont know anybody that has done it.im gonna be in there anyway.its a 660 ,11.1,mudbuster cam.........27 ,s and hunter works sheeve

Unless your climbing something I would not change spring but would drop to 16 gr weights with that cam and piston.

hunterworks wrote:

Unless your climbing something I would not change spring but would drop to 16 gr weights with that cam and piston.

there u r .i left u a mess at work to call me yesterday

i have the 16s greaseless from u .should i put the 0rg spring in the second sheeve .have u installed a one way bearing yet?any tips?? have never even looked behind the sheeve at the clutch

I called everyone Amber and Scotty told me to call, sorry you went through the cracks.

Have I been into a clutch before? I have been as far as you can go in the rhino engines, so far apart they looked like a jigsaw puzzle.

Tips, get a gasket first, drain oil second and make sure you put the new one on with outside printed on the bearing facing you when installing it.

To get secondary sheave off, slide it as far as it will go before hitting seat frame, slide it toward rear of vehicle then take a stubby screw driver and put the flat on the screwdriver on the end of the shaft and pry back and the secondary will come off then.

If you have orange spring and tool then try it but if not, don't you might not notice a big enough difference.

Todd

EPI orange............secondary.

I agree with ridepate the orange spring is perty popular with the 660's I went with the blue on my 450 but its not got the torque of the 660.

hunterworks wrote:

I called everyone Amber and Scotty told me to call, sorry you went through the cracks.

Have I been into a clutch before? I have been as far as you can go in the rhino engines, so far apart they looked like a jigsaw puzzle.

Tips, get a gasket first, drain oil second and make sure you put the new one on with outside printed on the bearing facing you when installing it.

To get secondary sheave off, slide it as far as it will go before hitting seat frame, slide it toward rear of vehicle then take a stubby screw driver and put the flat on the screwdriver on the end of the shaft and pry back and the secondary will come off then.

If you have orange spring and tool then try it but if not, don't you might not notice a big enough difference.

Todd

which gasket?

The gasket on the cover that covers wet clutch

Yamaha has it mistyped, they call it a carburetor gasket but it is a typo that stays.

hunterworks wrote:

The gasket on the cover that covers wet clutch

Yamaha has it mistyped, they call it a carburetor gasket but it is a typo that stays.

dont see it .u have a part # please???????

http://www.yamaha-suzuki-parts.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/2/62/12255/154856/default.aspx

I'm not sure what Todds talking about Craig?? I see no need for a gasket?? It's #4, the one-way.

Wait. Maybe #15, 5KM-15463-00-00 $5.27

yea i found 15 last night.a bud looked it up in the repair manual.i also ordered the nut next top the bearing.the manual said it will need to be replaced too.orange spring on the way too.....thanx

Tagging onto this thread....

UTV Crap has great deals on 450 sheaves now ($99.95 less $30 core charge, ending up at $69.95). That price grabbed my attention...

But, running 26" BigHorns, I'm reluctant to just put a sheave in it, and risk losing bottom end or midrange, which leads me to clutch kit...

What specialized tools (not counting impact wrench, which I have) are necessary to put a clutch kit in one? I've never had the cover off, much less putzed with anything in there.

1. Would I be better off just paying someone to do this?

2. Any recommendations for spring and weights for a bone-stock 450, snorkeled up under the hood, but original carb jet, running heavy original 26" BHs?

TIA...

If you change only the clutch spring and weights no special tools are a necessity, a spring compressor would be nice but not a necessity.

mud-and-guts wrote:

If you change only the clutch spring and weights no special tools are a necessity, a spring compressor would be nice but not a necessity.

Thanks... so just the two long bolts are sufficient to compress the spring? Is that what I understand?

You can use two of the longer bolts from the cover to compress the spring and remove the belt. When you pull the sheave with the spring on it out to change the spring it will be tight you will have to wiggle it around to get it out but it will slide out if in the right position. If you do not have a spring compressor when you pull it out wrap several big zip ties around the spring so it does not shot off when you remove the large nut on the backside. You can use something like a press or vise to compress the new spring and wrap several large zip ties around it while compressed, so you can reinstall it and when installed just cut the zip ties and remove them before putting back on the bike.

THANKS ..................

If the secondary won't come off, which mine would not due to the frame, use a pry-bar aginst the primary-shaft, you can't hurt the threads, pry the motor over and it will come off. Use a spare Rhino stock wheel to compress the spring and remove the nut, the center-hole on the rim is perfect, use body weight to compress the spring.

thanks pate ...............anymore.....? im going to start on it tomarrow night.just now got brothers rhino running good and put back together tonight after having to work all week end.it runs real good now........i did use the sea foam too.........

Sea-Foams some good stuff!!!!!!!! Eh?? Mark your secondary nut with a sharpie before you loosen it, so you'll know you got it that tight when re-installing. The stock-rim trick makes it real easy!!!

I also put a little lock-tite on my when I re-installed it for the extra insurance.

Well, even though I'd "sworn off" any more expensive mods for a while, I just bit the bullet and ordered the UTV Crap sheave and a clutch kit with 12gram weights and blue Epi spring. The sheave price of $69.95 (after refund of core charge) was just too enticing...

I'm rationalizing it by saying the savings on the sheave offset the cost of the clutch kit...

I figured that if I'm going to do any more performance mods down the road that this would set the base foundation for doing so. If nothing else, I'd like to get back what I've lost in performance with all the weight I've added, especially my big, heavy 26" Bighorns on ITP Delta steel wheels...

Sorry for the threadjack!

Not a jack Kent, good info for fellow 4-fiddy owners!!

ridepate wrote:

Not a jack Kent, good info for fellow 4-fiddy owners!!

Thanks...

I'm still trying to decide if I use all 12-gram weights or just every other one...

Since this thing is bone stock -- not even jet work, after snorkeling up under the hood -- I'm not sure if all 12-gram weights might be too much...

There's just not a heck of a lot of good 450 info out there, in comparison...

KentT wrote:

ridepate wrote:

Not a jack Kent, good info for fellow 4-fiddy owners!!

Thanks...

I'm still trying to decide if I use all 12-gram weights or just every other one...

Since this thing is bone stock -- not even jet work, after snorkeling up under the hood -- I'm not sure if all 12-gram weights might be too much...

There's just not a heck of a lot of good 450 info out there, in comparison...

Shoot, try it both ways. My first Rhino was a 450. The only mods I did to it was a Dyna-tek CDI, which made a heck of an improvement, a sheave with stock weights, and a exhaust tip. No jetting.