Marine Speakers necessary?

Kent thanks for that they are a lot less $46.00 than what i found $99,
That is what is great about this site.
STAY TUNED i know that was bad

Sounds like you're on the right track...

Few suggestions:

1. Think about picking up some flat stock instead of your aluminum bars -- you could maybe loosen the roof, slide the flat stock between the roof and the rollcage, raising the whole enclosure almost 3" (size of the cage tubing -- likely 1.75" -- plus the height of your aluminum bar) if you did it that way.

2. Put some foam pieces inside the enclosure before bolting the HU in, to absorb the sound coming from the back of the speakers. (Speakers actually push air -- i.e sound -- in both directions and you want to absorb what you don't want to hear).

3. You MAY need a few small holes in the enclosure to let it "breathe" -- speakers at high volume push a lot of air as the whole cone moves in and out. You have let some air get to the backside of the speakers or you're "choking them down" as that speaker cone moves in and out. That moliding hole MAY be sufficient -- if you hear whistling kinds of noises, you'll know you need more holes. If so, make sure the holes are somewhere where you won't get water in them when you're washing the machine... My last time around on my truck, I bought foam speaker enclosures (cones) that go behind the speakers in the door panels. Made a LOT of difference.

Thanks for the pointers. I may take the top off and tape it up just so I can sit and see how it looks. I don't want to raise the top because it won't fit in my toy hauler with a higher roof. Flat stock might work better.

The hole on top I was going to run all my wires thru and silicon closed. I was going to put my antenna on the back or just under the roof

I understand, but you'd only be raising the roof by the thickness of the flat stock....

If that hole is on top, I wouldn't completely seal it closed. Maybe stuff some foam rubber in around the wires to keep them from rubbing, yet still allow a little air in...

I made the mistake of sealing my "dog bowl speaker enclosures" to the roof of my Rhino with silicone -- it choked them right down. So, I broke the seals and at the same time added some foam (Foxfire's advice to someone else, I think) and it made a lot of difference. They sound much better, and louder now...

I actually thought about using a small piece of diamond plate like 12" x 24", so if I run it OVER the bar, the teryx grab handle won't be in the way...Thanks Kent!

Stench hurry up and install it so i can do mine. sound like we are on the right track. with one 1 inch stock i think it will sit to low. kent is dead on. i think if you put the speakers to the outer edge as much as you can and put foam inside and leave the hole as is I think it will be good. with the grab handle you think with flat stock it will go up to the roof level woth out getting in the way. if you can put it up to your roof and see. my roof is metal andits not coming off so if so I can bolt it to the roof.

Polk's on order...as soon as they get here I'm gonna get on it!

I think I'm gonna cut the holes and then spray it with rhinoliner. What would you guys suggest as spacers for the front of the box the width of the roll bar?

I'm gonna do all stainless hardware, might be overkill but I hate to redo stuff.

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what speakers are those? I cant tell by the first pic but how did you mount that radio box?

Mudcon wrote:

what speakers are those? I cant tell by the first pic but how did you mount that radio box?

Mud.....speakers are "Wake Board" speakers from Liquid Audio...speakers in the cans are by Kicker...240 watts. The head unit is in a "Marine Enclosure" that I got from Hunterwork's. Its bracket is bolted to a piece of 1/4" x 1.25" flat stock which sits on the
top side of the "X" brace.....and is held in place with 2, 1" conduit clamps. Now that I have explained how it is put together, if ya look, you can see what I am explaining.

sound good?

I think so........but maybe someone else will speak up and give you their opinion.

Foxfire wrote:

I think so........but maybe someone else will speak up and give you their opinion.

Huh?? Wha???...............When your in front of Fox.................

Foxfire wrote:

I think so........but maybe someone else will speak up and give you their opinion.

Hell yes it sounds good.

Okay, now that I am finally getting all my crap together- I have some technical questions for you electrical wizards. I am planning on adding three switches to my box, one to control the power to the entire box (keep from killing my battery), and two switches for front and rear aux lights. I also plan to put a 12volt outlet in to power my garmin gps. The stereo already has an inline 20A fuse. Here are my questions...

1. 12 ga wire ok to run directly from battery to box?
2. Relay necessary for main power switch or each switch/outlet?
3. Better to put a fuse near battery as well as fuse each switch or this this overkill?

I know the Teryx has a horrible stock battery and plan to upgrade in the future!

Stench wrote:

Okay, now that I am finally getting all my crap together- I have some technical questions for you electrical wizards. I am planning on adding three switches to my box, one to control the power to the entire box (keep from killing my battery), and two switches for front and rear aux lights. I also plan to put a 12volt outlet in to power my garmin gps. The stereo already has an inline 20A fuse. Here are my questions...

1. 12 ga wire ok to run directly from battery to box?
2. Relay necessary for main power switch or each switch/outlet?
3. Better to put a fuse near battery as well as fuse each switch or this this overkill?

I know the Teryx has a horrible stock battery and plan to upgrade in the future!

Well I'll start.... and this is just the way that I would do it.............doesn't make it correct.

First off, the 20A fuse for the stereo is to high....I would use nothing above a 5A.
I would also use nothing above a 5A for the 12 volt outlet, if all you are going to use it for is your GPS.
For front and read lights, 20A fuse would be fine.

Where do you want to put the fuses? The box has no access hole/door.....there for making it difficult for repairs. If it were me, the most I'd put in the box would be the stereo and the 12 volt outlet....then I would find a place on the dash to do my lights. You'll be pulling a lot of wire for all of the lighting .....power to the box, then from the box to the front, for the front lights......from the box to the rear for the rear lights....and again, no easy access for everything that is in the box, should there be a failure.

I would add an additional fuse box, some where on the machine that was easy to access. 10 gage wire from + post on battery to added fuse box. Now you have isolated all of your additions from the rest of the machine. From the added fuse box I would run 2, independent, 14 gauge wires. One for the stereo, the other for the 12 volt outlet. If you choose to put the lighting switches in the box, than I would run 2 more 14 gauge wires to the box. 1 for the front lights and 1 for the rear. I do not "Tie" into existing wiring to add an accessory.

OK...I went back and saw that you want to switch the entire box. Well, for me, I'd switch each item.......starting @ the added fuse box, one 14 guage wire would go to a switch. From that switch to the stereo. The second 14 guage wire would go to switch #2 and from switch #2 to 12 volt outlet. If you still want the front and rear light switch's in the box you would just follow the same steps, however you need to pull wire from the switches in the box back down to the front and rear light's.

For your question #2........no relay needed as all things are wired independently...thus, no heat.

For your question #3........not necessary, as each added item is independently fused.

I saw in your video that you are going to use square stock for the mounting brackets...I'd use flat stock to try and get the box up as much as I could.

Is the head unit water proof? If not I'd look into the Marine door that is on the front of my box....can be bought separate from the enclosure.

Of course, every thing needs to be grounded. I bought a junction block. Has 6 screws on each side. I made a wire loom which has 1 lead attached at the MFG's recommended ground location on the machine and the other ends from this loom are attached to the junction block on one side. Then on the other side of the junction block I attached the ground wire for each item in its respective location. This sounds like over kill, but it isolates each added item from the others, thus if you have a problem with one, the rest are not effected. Also, on my Prowler, when I first installed my stereo I grounded it to just a random location on the frame. The stereo worked fine when stopped, but when I took it for a ride the stereo kept breaking up.....thought it was a loose wire...checked and re-checked.....all were tight, but still broke up. When I moved the ground wire to the MFG's recommended ground location, every thing cleared right up. There for, when I ran the ground wires for my additions, I went the extra mile.

Hope that the above info is not confusing, but is helpful.

Thanks Fox! I'm definitely going with the flat bar stock.

I will get some pics up as soon as speakers come in and I can start assembly. You guys have been very helpful!