2011 900XP Carrier bearing conversion

Most of this info can be found on the big forum, but it takes a lot of searching because the info is scattered all over the place.
Remember the following info only pertains to the 2011 900XP's. The 2012's and 2013's used a different setup.
I imagine most 2011 owners have already replaced their carrier bearing, but mine was purchased as a leftover so it has less trail time than most. I had heard my bearing squeaking last fall and when it became difficult to push in neutral on a concrete floor, I new I had better change it before the riding season started. My XP has the 5 year Polaristar extended warranty, so I could have gotten it fixed free minus the $50 deductible, but then I knew I would be doing it again next year with them installing the same OEM bearing. And there is actually nothing wrong with the OEM bearing, it is a standard UC206 greasable industrial bearing. But the problem is Polaris decided to mount it in a non-greasable stamped sheet metal pillow block housing. If you took a new OEM bearing, removed it from the sheet metal housing and mounted it in a standard greasable pillow block, it would have the same effect as doing the conversion.
2011 900XP purchased new in June 2012 - 787 miles 117 hours.

I cheated and used a fork lift to work on mine, I highly recommend it.


The original bearing. After I removed it, I could not turn it with my fingers.
Soak everything with PB Blaster and hit the grease zerts with some grease before beginning to make removal easier.
If you remove the snap ring and loosen the 2 set screws, you will get enough travel with the splines of the front and rear driveshaft's to slide the front drive shaft off the differential.
I forgot to get a pic of it, but you remove the front driveshaft from the differential by hammering out a roll pin locking the driveshaft to the differential splines. Removing the passenger front tire and using a long roll pin punch makes this very easy.


I did not want to remove my skid plate so I hole sawed a couple of holes directly under the bearing mounting bolts to get access to the nuts. Turns out I only needed to put a hole on the drivers side, the passenger side nut is welded to the cross brace.



Now, the task of finding the perfect bearing and housing. I had the luxury of an entire Industrial Maintenance supply department to pick and choose from. So with some part #'s and specs from the big forum I began my search.


I knew I had a 1-3/16" shaft size so I started there. (F.Y.I. - 30mm also works)
I liked this FAFNIR housing with its elongated holes since I had read on the big forum about some running into hole spacing issues.


But the OEM bearing is 1.5" long and the bearing in that housing while being 1-3/16 diam., is 1.9" long. The 1.5" length is critical, the taper of the rear driveshaft rests against the back side of the bearing and the snap ring rests against the front. That's what holds the rear driveshaft in place to keep it from floating back and forth on its splines.



I had read on the big forum about some using a "206" pillow block bearing, so I went on the hunt for one of those. The mounting holes did not line up well with the original cross member mounts, that's why others had to "waller" out the holes to use one.


I thought maybe I could use the bearing from the 206 in the FAFNIR housing.
Wrong part#, right diameter, too short. 1.3" if I remember correctly.


The part # on the OEM bearing is a UC206, I then knew I had to find either that exact bearing or another manufacturers equivalent and install it in the FAFNIR pillow block housing.


I finally found a SealMaster 2-13 in a 4 hole flange housing that fit all the specs. So popped it out of the flange housing and popped it into the FAFNIR pillow block housing.


Some reported having to cut their plastic to get the thicker mount into place. I simply pulled up a little on the floor board and tapped the housing into place with a hammer. The taper of the driveshaft rested against the back of the bearing and the snap ring fit perfect on the front.


Longer bolts for the thicker housing and 5/16" flat washers.


Everything put back into place.


Hole drilled through console to have easy access to the grease zert.

Nice write up. I took the lazy route and bought the 30 MM pillow block listed on the forum. I also removed my skid plate because I figured it was a great time to replace the fan CB that is in the stupidest location possible : right above your skid plate. Simple trip to Napa for a $10 replacement and I moved it up behind the driver's seat with a project box from Radio Shack.

If you search for "the problem you are about to have" on the big forum there is a nice detailed write up.

I didn't drill a hole in my console to access the zerk fitting, no need to lube every ride and I can get that cover off in 5 mins or so.

Very nice post!!!

you can get some nice plastic hole plugs at lowes to pop in that hole to grease it in the console.I also replaced all my ujoints in the driveshaft while I had mine apart with grease fittings .now im all greaseable on my driveline......I used the hd grade pillowblock 30mm ...worked great.

If I had found a 30mm bearing on the shelf, I would not have hesitated to use it also.
Greasable bearings are definitely a must have in that environment. I will probably be replacing my U joints next year also.

my carrier bearing went out in 2012 in my old rzr and the dealer fixed it. I sold said rzr and then the guy I just sold it to had to have it replaced just a year later

I bought one this morn from oreilly for my 2013 xp4. It's bearing # hb-26. Timken, national and a few more make them, $68.

STR8RZR wrote:

I bought one this morn from oreilly for my 2013 xp4. It's bearing # hb-26. Timken, national and a few more make them, $68.

I think I read about that one. 2wd Toyota truck carrier bearing?

jhoncho4x4 wrote:

STR8RZR wrote:

I bought one this morn from oreilly for my 2013 xp4. It's bearing # hb-26. Timken, national and a few more make them, $68.

I think I read about that one. 2wd Toyota truck carrier bearing?

Yea, think it may be for a 4wd not sure I just had the part #. It's good for 2012 and 2013's.

I just changed mine out last night. One thing I ran into was the new bearing not wanting to slide up onto the shaft. I had to use a grinder and a little bit of love but it is on there now. I also drilled down into the shaft just a touch to give the two set screws a place to seat down in the metal instead of just riding on top of the shaft.  I used blue Loctite on the set screws so hopefully they stay put.

I fought and fought with that damn roll pin in the front.  Air chisel finally did its job and pushed it out.  The one for my 2012 XP4 had a huge rubber housing that sat inside that metal cage. I have not gotten all my stuff back together but I am hoping it works okay with swapping to the pillow block style.