ridepate, how bout a little paint help!

Big-R wrote:

GunRunner wrote:

I still wonder how those boyz with them fancy painted rhinos that went thru the elderberry patch at bell county look

Those boys rhinos; with the fancy paint, still look great. I think their painted rhinos are more scratch resident then regular plastic. WV Rhino has a paint shop, Green Hornet sells paint and both know a thing or two about paint. Moreover, the armor plastic holds up better then regular also. I saw all of them about two weeks ago and the rhinos still looked good.

I would not believe this stuff if I had not have seen it for myself but those painted Rhinos from WV are the bomb! All still look like new money when clean and yes the new flamed red holds it's own too.

Skunkwerks.......................in Martys garage now............

Skunkwerks.......................in process.

Tease!

Still not complete. Got some bumpers to paint, stripeing to put on, and some touch-up to do.

Looks good Marty are you doing it with a spray can like Jimbo did.You should have painted it black & silver then it could have been Raider Rhino

Yea, doin the spray can thing. Dont tease me Bobby. I may have to strip it back down again.

wvyankee2 wrote:

Yea, doin the spray can thing. Dont tease me Bobby. I may have to strip it back down again.

Now that would look good on the hood if it was Raider colors

Dang Marty , that is looking really good.....

It's ok if you want to put a big "UK" on the hood, I won't let the other guys tease ya too much!

Lookin good man!!!!!!!!!!!!

Looking sssswwwweeeeeeeettt Dude.....can't wait to she MORE!!

Now that's looking GOOD !!

Looks good Marty.

I can't wait to see all of us on our next ride. With all the custom paint someone might think we are sand fleas.

It turned out pretty good for me. I am not a painter.

Dont kid yourself Marty , it really looks good.....

Chris....

Chris, you wanting to start rubbing again??

DirtDawber wrote:

Chris, you wanting to start rubbing again??

Nah , No more rubbing for me.......

what ya been rubbing chris??? :NSSherlock:

Go into the woods with him and find out.

I am by far not an expert but I do paint quite a bit and I do sell automotive paint by trade. You guys are doing alot more steps than I do when I paint bodies. These are the steps I use so take them for what they are worth.
1. Wash with hot soapy (DAWN) water. This should remove 90% of contaniments.
2. Scuff with some type of plastic degreaser using a grey scuff pad. I use a degreaser called ANTISTATIC. Rubbing alcohol would work as well.
3. Use some type of adhesion promoter. Bulldog, or whatever paint company you are using will have one compatible with there paint, it is what they use to paint bumper covers on cars.
4. Seal with compatible sealer for paint manufacterer. Or if rattle canning, rattle on at this point. I'm not a fan of rattle cans but I also have access to paint and facilities to do otherwise. Some dont. Although I have seen some jobs that look really good with them.
5. Apply basecoat. I put 5% clear hardner in my basecoat it adds flexability and extends the window for clearcoat so you can do graphics.
6. Clearcoat.
Although the finish is tough, it is not indestructable but neither is plain plastic. If you hit rocks, run through fences, roll over or just plain ride hard it will take on some damage. But you can sand and buff it and make it look good again. I've found the paint lasts about as long as the plastis does, you usually break a panel before the paint is junk. If you don't you ain't riding hard enough.

Hornet-Couple of questions.

Orange-Peel. In my practice I'm getting a little. Too much pressure?? Too much material?? Thinner or thicker???I tried it at 40 then went all the way to 60.

When you say add hardner to the base to extend the flexibility?? Why?? I've done the graphics two or three days later or as soon as an hour later.

Jimbo

Ridepate-What kind of gun you got? What kind of paint? Most basecoats are basically Lacquer (not very flexible) if you add hardner it turns it to enamel (flexible) and helps with intercoat adhesion (without sanding) for extended periods of time.

Green Hornet wrote:

Ridepate-What kind of gun you got? What kind of paint? Most basecoats are basically Lacquer (not very flexible) if you add hardner it turns it to enamel (flexible) and helps with intercoat adhesion (without sanding) for extended periods of time.

Binks HVLP,PPG urethane base/clear. Ok ,I understand about the hardner in the base, makes sense.