Rhino Upgrades

Wheels wrote:

not to step on any toes... but, when going by the MPH... are we going by a gps unit or the dash? if going by the dash... are we taking into consideration any mod's like bigger tires, etc.?


by the way, Z28's rhino is pretty nice.

and...

i wonder, would the gearing from a 450 fit in a 700? i'd like all the low end i can get... i prefer the rock crawling over going 60mph. anyone know?

just put a mudbuster cam in and a epi clutch kit

Quote :

My 07 sport is not stock & will run 54mph on the dash with 27 " big horns with two big boys in it. Let me tell you I DON"T SMOKE CRACK! So be nice, I have been building motors for over 40 years & if I say it runs this fast it does!

There is a big differance between mid 50's and 60 mph readings.The original post was amed at those claiming 60 mph Rhinos..Sorry to offend you. I too have been building race engines for over 30 years. Multple sport Championships.(AMA,Inex ,IJSBA and WKA) Every mile an hour topend, cost you a $1000 dollars.. Only a big bore, stroker with variable Timing and High compression on a 660 engine is going to get you out of the 50's.
Vince

www.georgia4x4.org

Tellico450 wrote:

did you lose or gain any low end power?

450,
It did not loose any bottem-end at all, just rasied the limiter,lost the reverse limiter, and got a little extra speed. It will scare you the first speed run, you will think......is thing gonna blow?? It actualy does not completly loose the rev limiter, it's just the little motor won't turn enough to get to it anymore.
I think for a 450 the Dyna-Tec is money well spent but IMO that's all you need to do to it. The money spent versus what you get after a CDI is just not there. Wheels, tires, skids ect are fine, but I would leave it at that.
I think the 4-fiddy is a good unit for it's intended purpose, and it definitly crawls a little better than a 660, but I made a mistake when I bought one ,and knew it first ride............ I'm not knocking it by any means, it just wasn't for me.
Jimbo

My stock 07 660 would go 41MPH when I bought it. After the Hunterworks Tri-Fire CDI install it would hit 50MPH. After I shimmed the needle and installed a 157.5 main jet, added a RAIS intake, UNI filter, and 2" exhaust tip, I now hit 53MPH. I have not put a new Sheave on it yet. I'm expecting 58MPH or better when the Hunterworks Sheave goes in. Hunterworks website advertises 58MPH on a stock machine with just their Sheave and CDI. So my Carb retuning should get me 60MPH I would think. Hope? Of course this is all based on my Digital dash reading, which may not be right. But, I think it's close because I rode with a new RZR last weekend and both our speedos were reading pretty close. He said he was going 50MPH, and mine said 48MPH. Both have stock size tires. I know many people use GPS to verify, but I dont have alot of faith in them all the time. I was running 70MPH at 10000 feet on my KingQuad 700 in Colorado, and when I went to show my friend top speed on my Garmin to prove it, it said 102 MPH.? allthough it does seem to track MPH in my vehicle pretty well. I will compare the two soon.

i still need to get my carb tuned in..im running 155 main with the air/fuel mixture screw turned 2 times out..is there something about the clips to change??????

Hey Tellico450 read this tech article form Hunterworks
http://www.hunterworks.com/inc/sdetail/24897

Hope this heips

Heres another- http://offroad-review.com/new/index.php?page=52

Wheelin wrote:

i still need to get my carb tuned in..im running 155 main with the air/fuel mixture screw turned 2 times out..is there something about the clips to change??????

Yea, You pull out the needle and swap the thick and thin washers on the needle, put it back in. This raises your needle and increases your midrange power(1/4to3/4 throttle) I have my A/F screw out 17/8.

is there a picture anywhere

Wheelin wrote:

is there a picture anywhere

I'll have to look for one. But, It's pretty simple Pull the diaphram off the top of the carb. the needle sits down in it. Just pull it out with needlenose pliers. There is a plastic cap with O-ring, then a spring. after that their is just 2 washers one on the top and one on the bottom of a teflon grommet. One slides off the bottom of the needle and one slides off the top. Just swap them and put it back together. Just make sure the diaphram is seated when you put the top back on. Not a big deal. Make sure you have a small set of vise grips to get the screws out of the Carb. They are in so tight you will strip them with a screwdriver.

Here is an exploded view of the 660 carb. The needle assembly is #2.

Well, I finally took the time and added the pipe to my Rhino last night, I am going to attempt the hood mod tonight (maybe), My son is wanting to go play T-Ball so I might have to wait till this weekend to do it!

In line for Best Mod. New Sport Steering Wheel. I hated that stock Wheel.

i want the wheel upgrade as well...how much was it?

shawnley1222 wrote:

i want the wheel upgrade as well...how much was it?

I got the Wheel here: http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/pages/catalogs/detail/26/216/415/40836/1/0/0/1/5/5/992/35569/sport-steering-wheel.aspx

I got the center section on a Ebay auction for $5.00. You have to buy the center section separate.

im trying to find an all black one so if anyone runs across one let me know...

OK - here goes my input...

I just got a Pro 1 wheel from Court at UTV Powersport - $100 wheel, $125 adapter...best upgrade yet - I will post pics later this week.

Along with that order - I got:

UNI Intake

Dynatek CDI

Sheave

Alba exhaust SYSTEM
(not just a slip on - everythign I have read, the most restrictive air flow is at two place - the 2" to 1" adapter at the intake, and right out of the header pipes - therefore a slip on wont do much good - again - just reading - will let you know more later)

2" wheel spacers for the rear and 1" for the front

4 point harnesses

OK - now with all that - I am finishing my snorkel tonight - then plugging in the CDI, then the intake, then the exhuast, then I will let my shop do the sheave and re-jetting of carb on Thurday.... (hell, I may try the sheave myself - wheelin says its easy...we'll see)

I will keep everyone updated as to my progress... I will check speeds with GPS (i just dont beleive the dash is 100% accurate)

Like Wheelin said - the basics for performance are really just what I mentioned. I am the type of rider that I want some more out of this machine - but I also dont want to tinker with crap constantly. I want to turn a key and ride!

Just my update story - sorry it was so long - there just seems to be A BAZILLION ideas and crap ou there on the net, so I thought I would share my side.

dang man..you are spending the money

yep - but its controlled chaos... trying to go in steps...

bought it in May of 07.

Budgeted to spend $6k in upgrades total... (not including maintenance and broken pieces later)

have about $2.5k spent so far...

so next year - its time for a cage, seats, shocks and beadlocks.

Then...I will be done. Ride it, maintain it, sell it a few years later when a 1100cc with power steering come out.

I honestly think setting a budget was the best thing I did... man, you get to reading online and next thing you know you want $40k in your rhino...Pick out the msot important feautres to you - shop online - do it in steps - then call it done (for now )

i add on when i see i need something...until i need it why buy it plus my wallet stays thin.... rcmass go here sheave is easy to doesp with this vid even if you dont have theirs(like me) same process

http://www.hunterworks.com/hw_rhino_machined_sheave

I watched that last night - I may try it... dont know if I have it in me yet - this is really the first wrench turning I have ever done...sems relatively easy so far - but man, if I furk my engine up for soemthing I did, I will be pissed and the wife will probably not let me buy another. errrr.

rcmass wrote:

I watched that last night - I may try it... dont know if I have it in me yet - this is really the first wrench turning I have ever done...sems relatively easy so far - but man, if I furk my engine up for soemthing I did, I will be pissed and the wife will probably not let me buy another. errrr.

well i just tool my laptop out there with me play=pause do it...repeat just step by step take your time also and you'll have no problems...i have still takin mine for some1 else to do the work...except fot the free doors

ALRIGHT!

Got the CDI, Intake, Snorkels, Exhaust system, and spacers on last night....

Not jetted right, and no sheave and I hit 50mph gps on a flat and 55 downhill.

Rhino is at the shop now getting sheaved and jetted (and 100 hour service).

I will pick it up first thing tomorrow, cleaned (yeeah), and then head to CAW for some riding.

I will let you all know the results and post pics afterwards.

Also, if anyone else wants to meet at Carolina Adventure World tomorrow for some riding - come on. Just outside of Columbia SC. Never been, but heard its a god place for a day!

http://www.carolinaadventureworld.net/directions.htm

What about any mods for the 700? I am tired of getting outran by 660s on topend. I want a k&n, pipe, and programmer. What exactly does the clutch sheve do?

the sheave gives you about 5mph more topend.. hunterworks has cdi and sheaves for the 700

speaking of hunterworks....

I was looking for some decent FUNCTIONAL fender flares and heard they are the ones to get.... SO, I sent them an email....SO, now I dotn know what to do about flares for mud in the cabin - other than eat it

I just saw the new stronger fender flares for the Rhino, and am very interested in a set. However I have a concern.

First, I have Yamaha nerf bars and 1” wheel spacers on the front and 2” on the rear – and am getting pummeled with mud. I ride in the southeast on trails and fields.

Pivoting on trees in tight spots is very common, and branches hitting them would also be common. Are they strong enough to withstand this kind of use?

Thank you very much for your input and honesty!

Robbie Massengill

RESPONSE:

Actually the wording needs be changed as far as new is concerned because they have been updated for a while now and we are discontinuing them due to having to buy 100 sets at a time and having to sit on them for so long. We are going to be selling a set from Maier MFG. but they don’t do quite as good a job as ours do.

They hold up real good to abuse, they may not like be rubbed right up against the very bottom and pushing on the roll bar very much.

They will definitely fix your mud problem.

Thanks,

Todd