UTV Crap has Rhino 450 machined sheaves for $69.95...

$99.95, with a $30 refund when you send in your core. Make its $69.95...

I have them holding one for me. Now I have to figure out if I want to change the spring and/or weights while I'm in there.

Something I hadn't even really planned on doing, but at that price, it's hard to pass up.

If intererested see DirtySideDown's post on RF.net

I seen that, Thats a cheap price I am thinking about ordering one for a spare.

I would recommend changing to the 12gram weights. I also changed to the blue spring but couldn't tell much from it.

Did you get this in yet bro? I am curious as to how theirs compare.

No, coming out of Arizona I don't expect it here until the end of the week. It seems like UPS out of Arizona must go to San Francisco or Seattle or something before it heads this way...

My TrailLogic skids took 8-10 days on UPS...

Now I'm trying to decide if I spend the $$ for a CDI. Not sure it's worth the $$ for a couple MPH...

The cdi only yielded 1-2 mph flat out on mine (41 with out cdi bouncing off the rev-limiter 42 with cdi never hitting the rev-limiter unless on a down hill stretch then maybe 44-45mph) so I got to say it is not worth to much unless you do a cam and/or piston swap. But if you get one I do not recommend a dynatek, I have had 3 that went bad in less than a year (covered under warrenty)and I know several others that have had the same troubles. I am currently running the big gun which has worked great so far.

Finally started the install on the sheave and clutch kit this afternoon...

Not off to a good start.

1. The fan on the secondary sheave is blocking one of the holes that I need to use to remove the belt -- so I just went ahead and removed the primary sheave. My impact wrench didn't want to take the nut off the secondary sheave, but it did remove the primary... not sure how I'll deal with this, but not there yet...

2. Getting the cover off the primary sheave was a PITA because it was sealed so tight. Rubber mallet would do nothing, other than tear chunks out of the rubber. Tried using a chunk of wood and ballpeen hammer -- the sharp edges of the cover just split the wood. Finally hit it harder than I'd like with a drift pin and ballpeen, but finally broke it loose...

3. Then, when I start removing the weights and cleaning them, getting ready to install the weights that came with the UTV Crap Duner's Kit, I find that those new weights are thicker and heavier than what I have -- not lighter. So, I stopped, with it all torn apart and posted a topic on RF.Net, saying WTF?

Only real positive I can say is that it was nice and clean in there and the belt is in great shape, as it should be with less than 50 hours on it. Comparing the new sheave, it's obvious that in addition to machining the ramps, they've machined both the hub and the outer rim, so the rollers can come in closer and go out farther. The belt on the secondary was out about as far as it could go stock, so I can see that you can't do much there. But, the wear pattern on the primary shows that the belt could possiblly go about 1/8 inch higher on the primary.

Oh well, I hope to get this resolved soon. If push comes to shove, I think I'll put it back together with the stock weights -- but I don't like dealing with greasy mess more than I have to...

That is a hell of a buy on that sheave. Let us know what performance gains you see with it.

May have to find an air impact. My 1/2 inch impact is rated at 750lbs and my 3/8 is rated at 250lbs. Both were money well spent.

Did the sheave come with a couple spacers? one small like a washer and one for the thin cover?

I have an old air impact, but it's obviously weak. I oiled it good -- we'll see it that helps.

It didn't come with any shims or spacers. I talked to Steve about that when I was ordering it. I think a spacer would put the belt too high on the secondary, since they machine down at the hub. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow.

KentT wrote:

I have an old air impact, but it's obviously weak. I oiled it good -- we'll see it that helps.

It didn't come with any shims or spacers. I talked to Steve about that when I was ordering it. I think a spacer would put the belt too high on the secondary, since they machine down at the hub. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow.

Hope it goes well for you. I have the whiterhino cut which has spacers to give more lowend and topend. It did ride low and rub the cover just a little off idle to start with but once I got a few miles on it and it got a grove cut it quit rubbing. I was worried at first it might cut all the way through the cover but with nearly 1400 miles on the sheave I have had no troubles.

Well, they've confirmed that they sent the wrong weights -- they should've been aluminum with a hole in the center. Instead, these are steel, like the OEM, but thicker...

Guess I'll be down for a few days, waiting on the right parts now...

Dang!

At least I'll use that time to change the secondary spring -- even if I have to rent a bigger/better impact wrench...

Wasn't able to get the secondary sheave off today -- I'm going to try renting or borrowing a better impact wrench.

Did take a side-by-side comparison so you can see where the UTV Crap sheave (on the left) is machined. Notice how much closer the roller can go down to the hub, after machining that shoulder out of there. Also, look how thin the outer lip is, to allow the rollers to go out farther. You can see why they claim improvements to both top and bottom end -- and why they don't use a spacer or shim for the low end.

The one I have looks to be machined about the same plus it has the shims for added performance.

For the price that looks bad-ss I would almost buy one for a spare or send them my stock one and have it machined. I cann't wait till you get it installed to see what kind of results you get with it.

Auto-zone has a lone a tool program. I don't know if they rent impacts but it is a thought.

Nice pics Kent. I tried to explain this but that really shows the difference. I also pick up some bottom end when I installed my Unleashed sheave.

Finally borrowed a 1/2" impact wrench and got these installed yesterday -- found out that NO ONE around here will rent air tools because of the possibility of getting water in them.

Haven't really had much of a chance to test it out -- only one run out of the driveway and down the street. The difference in low-speed RPM and acceleration up to about 20MPH is quite noticeable. Didn't have a chance to wind it out to see if what the top speed is -- assuming that it will still hit the rev limiter with these heavy 26" Hornies on steel wheels.

What was really noticeable was watching it operate during tests before I closed it back up.

(1) At idle and lower RPMs the belt now rides so high in the secondary sheave that the ribs are completely above the edge of the pulley. The edge of the OEM belt (still relatively new with less than 50 hours) goes ALL the way to the top of the pulley. It is perhaps 1/16" of an inch higher than before on the secondary.

(2) The lighter weights (11.5 grams, not 12 as I initially thought) really delay how fast the primary sheave starts opening up. It's now somewhere past 1/2 throttle before the sheave starts opening, and it won't open completely until almost 3/4 throttle or so. (It would've been nice to have a tach to see the actual RPMs), At full throttle, the belt is riding at least 1/4" higher on the primary sheave than before -- not quite as high as the secondary sheave at idle -- but all the way to the top of the primary at full throttle.

(3) There appears to be a noticeable "shift point" in how the primary sheave opens, just watching it, but I don't have enough time in the seat yet to see if it is really noticeable on the "seat of the pants dyno." Not sure if this is just an impression based on the delay in it opening, or not.

Hopefully will have more impressions after this coming weekend. We're supposed to ride in a "charity ride" on the backroads and sidestreets on Saturday, then the ATV club has a night ride scheduled for Saturday night.

One tip to relate from this. When I first tried to remove the secondary sheave, the fan was blocking one of the holes that I needed to use to relieve tension on the belt -- it tilted one bolt at just enough angle to where I couldn't get it started in the threads. So I removed the primary sheave with the belt still on. When putting it back together, I positioned the fan on the secondary, then used the two bolts to keep it in the right location while I tightened it down. Don't put them in far enough to contact the inside half of the secondary sheave -- just enough to get them fully-threaded on the outside half. This won't influence the torquing or anything, yet esnures you don't end up with what I began with -- a condition where the fan had shifted slightly during tightening, and blocked one of the bolt holes.

The sheave weights and spring was the best mod for performance that I have made to mine.

Let us know the top speed difference when you get to try it out.

mud-and-guts wrote:

The sheave weights and spring was the best mod for performance that I have made to mine.

Let us know the top speed difference when you get to try it out.

Got to test drive it on a night ride last night. I really like what it has done for acceleration -- really perked that up when coming out of a curve or obstacle from a rolling start up to about 20 MPH. Can't really tell much about low end -- it never lacked for power there, though I ride in 4WD mostly on these tight trails, so I didn't get a chance to see if it'll turn the big 26x12x12 Bighorns much better. Acceleration is noticeable improved...

Still haven't seen what it'll do on top end at the rev limiter -- saw 39 MPH on the digidash, with two riders, and heavily loaded -- gas can, big cooler, etc. Not enough clear, open and level stretches to really see what it would do. Never hit the rev limiter...

Overall, I'm pleased...