Rear Brakes

I changed my rear brakes yesterday and what a job. It would have been simple but the caliber slides were stuck big time so I had to remove the caliber and put it in my vise to knock the slide loose. After knocking it loose I took the slide to the wire wheel and cleaned it real good before applying a good coat of grease and reinstalling it in the caliber.
After getting it reinstalled I took my brake bleeding tool and bleed the system(front and rear) of air. Now I have killer brakes it will lock up all four with less effort than ever before.

Moral of the story if you are going to be playing in the mud and water don't go 1000 miles before removing the brakes and greasing the slides.

Another something, The Rhino requires dot 4 brake fluid
From what I have read the difference between dot 3 and dot 4 is the temp rating. The dot 4 has about 80 degree higher rating. They are compatible but do not use dot 3 when dot 4 is recommended. You can use dot 4 when dot 3 is recommended.

Good Info M&G.

DOT 4 does make a diff. I have Experience.

And don't use DOT 5 thinking you are better off, it is not compatiable with rubber parts designed to use 3 or 4, and after a few days you will be replacing anything in your brake system that has rubber in it, master cyl. and all 4 calipers at min.

Very good info from all of you guys on a job that I am NOT looking forward to having to do either! Thanks

Woodtick wrote:

Very good info from all of you guys on a job that I am NOT looking forward to having to do either! Thanks

Its a fairly easy job as long as you do it before the slide sticks.

I pulled the rear of mine up on a set of car ramps and scotched the front to give me better access underneath the rhino.

remove the master cylinder cap(this makes the caliber piston easier to spin back in)
remove the rear skid about maybe 7 bolts (8mm socket)
Then remove the two bolts holding the slide on (14 mm ratchet wrench) (I recommend blue threadlocker on reassembly)
then pull the caliber down under the bike slightly so you can see whats going on
remover the two allen head flush mount bolts in the end of the caliber that hold the pads in place
then the pads should be easily removed
next turn the caliber piston clockwise to run it back into the caliber(you maybe able to do this by hand if not a big screw driver will fit the slot and spin it in)
next remove the slide clean and grease the slide pins then install in the opposite order (minus spinning the piston)

don't forget to use the backing off the old pads on the new ones

If the slide is stuck you may have to remove the e-brake cable(no tool required) and the brake line( I think it was a 12mm) so you can get better access to the caliber.

Bleeding the brakes is unnecessary unless you remove the brake line.
To bleed if you do not have a vacuum pump (make sure you have checked to insure proper fluid and reinstalled the master cylinder cap)
have a good friend pump the brakes several times then hold them with pressure
while they have them held open the brake bleeder screw on the caliber(looks similar to an grease fitting 8mm).
when you loosen the bleeder the pedal should go to the floor and they should hold it there till you have the bleeder tightened back up.
After tightening the bleeder tell them to pump the pedal again.(Repeat this sequence till you have good pedal, you may also need to bleed the other corners to get all the air out of the system)
Don't forget to check the fluid every couple bleeding cycles.

This is for my 450 application I do not know if the 660-700 uses the same hardware or not but I would think so other than the 700 having the brakes on the spindles.