Water Temp Gauge

ridepate wrote:

Oh man I didnt know you were using a mechinical. I used an electric. I have no idea if you can extend the line............sorry. Why don't you just mount the guage in the top of the doghouse?? Or somewhere closer. You'd still be able to see it with a quick glance. Dunno

Me neither -- I thought we were talking about sending unit all along.

KentT wrote:

ridepate wrote:

Oh man I didnt know you were using a mechinical. I used an electric. I have no idea if you can extend the line............sorry. Why don't you just mount the guage in the top of the doghouse?? Or somewhere closer. You'd still be able to see it with a quick glance. Dunno

Me neither -- I thought we were talking about sending unit all along.

well im lost as can be what makes them so different(beside the obivous)

also how much and where could I get a electric if I decide to get one? I got the one currently at advance auto

IMO, the biggest difference (in addition to flexibility in mounting them) is that electronic ones aren't as prone to developing a leak somewhere. They tend to cost more, though.

Not sure what the differences in accuracy might be but it would tend to reason that the closer you can measure the temp to the engine, the more accurate it would be. Long lines to the gauge, for example, even though they may be sealed, could effect the reading... Just my thoughts.

They should be available from auto parts stores also -- they just may not stock them or as many of them...

Autometer and VDO are both good name brands of reasonably affordable gauges. I'm sure there's many more...

how do the eletric gauges work? I read how the mechanical work but now need to know how electrical work

shawnley1222 wrote:

how do the eletric gauges work? I read how the mechanical work but now need to know how electrical work

Dunno for sure -- similar to any electronic thermostat, I'd imagine . Perhaps measuring resistance to ground, then using some kind of sensor (likely bimetal thermometers, originally) and some kind of variable rheostat to vary the resistance.

well issue solved went and bought an Autometer electric gauge and it looks like I can use what I already cut nad teed into phew now I just need to make sure of that

i put machanical gauge in to mine. the fan comes on at 160 and goes off at 150 (i do have a 450) i got a coupler from utv crap. but had to bore the hole for the probe to get to fit. i have installed two now one is on my buddys 660 but we put a 2nd radiator and put probe into the extra radiator. works good and no leaks. his fan comes on at 180 and off at 170 if it gets to 200 the other fan gets turned on by a manual switch.

sounds complex... its always something the auto meter threads are different then the standard on the tee I had inline right now

Shawn, the treads are a LITTLE different. Put some thread-tape on it and go to town. Be gentle and it will work.

I think I may try and find just some 3/4 brass pipe at work, dril&tap it, and return all this stuff I bought get my money back. We'll see what happens

well got the new gauge in and sending unit 1 bug though it stays at one temp and the fan came on but stayed at one temp (low)




temp it stuck at

Is that where it stays the whole time???

See if that is where the needle moves to when you first turn the ignition on, with the engine cold.

I think that may be its "starting point" and it is never really registering the temp...

You got it Kent it goes there when I put power to it and never budges... im thinking that the sending unit need to be grounded.


A few more pics





sorry bad quality my cameras are broken and only have phone to get pics with

I think you diagnosed your problem. The ones (oil pressure and water temp) that I received in the UTV Concepts kit each came with a grounding wire that you had to install, in addition to the wire that goes to the gauge.

Each adapter had a flat mounting tab with a hole in it, that wasn't used. That's where the grounding strap attached. If you don't have anything like that, you could always strip the insulation off a piece of wire back a littly ways, wrap that around the adapter and clamp it on with a metal hose clamp...

There's no current here -- all you're looking for is a good permanant fix that won't wiggle loose or lose its ground. Then use a clamp-on ring end or "Y" connector on the other end and mount it to a bolt on the engine somewhere that's metal to metal.

Shawn....you may also need to ground the gauge since it is only mounted in plastic......ya I know it's mounted in the plate of your drink holder, but that is screwed to the plastic dash.
So just run a wire from one of the gauges mounting lugs to some steal part of the machine....such as the frame. That may be all you need to do as the circuit may then be complete.

Kent thats along the lines of what I am going to try today. It says the sending unit grounds through the threads so being in the middle of rubbe no ground so am going to try and groud it see if thet fixes it.


Fox good suggestion but I already have grounded the gauge but thanks for the just in case I forgot thought.

grounded out the sending unit and works like a charm put hte lights for both gauges on a switch.


**side note my volt meter light hadn't worked grounded it out nad works now too**

now just gotta redo the pipe where the sender is since there is a small leak and will be done with it for good

shawnley1222 wrote:

grounded out the sending unit and works like a charm put hte lights for both gauges on a switch.


**side note my volt meter light hadn't worked grounded it out nad works now too**

Good Job Shawn.......


Chris....

Way to go Shawn!!!!!!!!!!! Knew you could do it!!!!!!!

Not without yalls helpful insight thanks again yall now if I could just find the little green bulb cover so it will match my green volt meter

My water temp gauge wil be here Monday. I plan on removing the radiator and cleaning it good before installing the TCP shroud. I need to also check over everything else since I have been overheating when traveling slow.

Anyone have any suggestions of items to check?
--Waterpump makes a small gurgle in radiator so I guess it's OK.
-- The fan I'm not sure works correct. I pulled a swisher mower behind the Rhino and the overheat light came on. I stopped to let it cool and fan continued to run with light on. When I recranked the Rhino the light stayed on but fan stopped running. Is that normal? Where's the relay some mention that contraols the fan?

Any other items I should check/replace? I don't mind replacing a few good parts I just hate to have that temp light come on and it ruin a good ride....