Clutch kits

What are you running? I want a "right now" response when i touch the gas petal. I'm in low range 90% of my ride and i hate how it seems like it's slipping the clutch when i take off.

Do you ride the 450, 660, or 700? I ride the 450 and with 26 inch tires I went with a machined sheave, 12gram weights, and blue spring which brought me more pep and a lot more top speed than stock.
Most 660's I have seen go with the orange spring and 14 gram weights.

Sorry i didn't post that! 700.

I don't really care for the top end, as long as i'm able to do 40 then i'm fine. I just want to touch the gas and go!

My buddies 660 with a sheave and spacer has more low end crawl power in High then mine does in Low.

joshc wrote:

Sorry i didn't post that! 700.

I don't really care for the top end, as long as i'm able to do 40 then i'm fine. I just want to touch the gas and go!

My buddies 660 with a sheave and spacer has more low end crawl power in High then mine does in Low.

Josh, have you changed your belt buddy? I bet that is your problem. Sounds like a worn out belt to me if your buddys 660 has that much better low gear.

No i haven't yet. I've been wondering about it. With rock crawling and draggin logs i'm sure it's not in new condition any more!

I checked on just getting the spacer for the sheave, but i guess it doesn't work right with a stock sheave.

If nothing else when I replaced the belt I would replace the weights and spring. I don't know what would be best for the 700, I think stock is something like 18 so if it were me I would try going with the 16's just to try. For less than a hundred bucks the spring and weights was a worthy investment on my 450 it made a big improvement off idle to mid-range. I think the weights did more for performance than the spring but while you are in there the spring will help keep the belt from slipping.

So school me on what that does exactly and how the grams play in.

The lighter the weights, the more time it takes for the primary to "sling" them out, thus staying in a ,so to speak, lower gear longer. That's a good set-up for a stock sheave. Or you can buy a machined sheave that has been cut on the bottom and the top.

joshc wrote:

No i haven't yet. I've been wondering about it. With rock crawling and draggin logs i'm sure it's not in new condition any more!

I checked on just getting the spacer for the sheave, but i guess it doesn't work right with a stock sheave.

you can still do a washer mod on your stock sheave as far as i know. i read about it over on highlifter.
im gonna try that with a new belt, spring, and overdrive weights from hunterworks

Yes you can do a washer mod A friend of mine has a 660 so we cloned the washer I got with my machined sheave and used it on his when we changed the spring, weights, and belt and it works great.

So which is the best way to go. New sheave or springs and weights?

I recommend them all at the same time because if you are like me and you do only one then you will be tearing it back apart shortly.

call todd at hunterworks .com he will fix ya up!

I run the Unleashed machined sheave with a gold secondary spring and am very happy with the results.

for the 700 you need to just change the secondary spring if you have not add any performance mods. stock weights do fine- they are 20g total- you can try the 16's plus covers = 17.5-18's grams. stock 700 weights covers do not come off. but i dont think you need to change the weights to tell you truth.

call unleashed utv- Mike will get you set up.

i have done tons of testing with 700 clutching and todds testing with a stop watch is a joke.

and again- im not here to start any fighting- if anyone has any questions please ask.

but if he is not looking for top end then the sheave is not going to be any help to him...
i added just a black rhino performance cdi and got to 50mph

my sheave came with a shim which helped a lot on the bottom and gained a few mph on top.

I didn't mention that i have an intake, dual exhaust, programmer and the piece that gets rid of the rev's (can't remember the name).

MUD-you are seeing exactly what i saw with the sheave and shim. My buddies was just perfect i thought.

I have a big gun exhaust, big gun cdi, machined sheave, blue clutch spring, 12 gram weights+2 gram covers, dynojet jet kit, and I just installed a set of 26 inch GBC's Grim Reaper tires (which are 2 inches taller than the stockers) on 14 ITP wheels. Now mine still has lots more power than stock.

Get a new belt on there Josh. Make sure it is a factory and not aftermarket belt.

The Unleased sheave helps with bottom end, it must be magic or something!

Clayboy wrote:

The Unleased sheave helps with bottom end, it must be magic or something!

No Clay, We are just Crazy

wvyankee2 wrote:

Get a new belt on there Josh. Make sure it is a factory and not aftermarket belt.

Why is that?

joshc wrote:

wvyankee2 wrote:

Get a new belt on there Josh. Make sure it is a factory and not aftermarket belt.

Why is that?

Your belt is shot. Also the cheap aftermarket belts are no good. Only the EPI is worth considering. The Factory replacement is most recommended. Both are over $100. You can buy some for around $60, but dont do it. You will be surprised at how much bottom end you pick up with a new belt.