Up graded the sheave

You are more than welcome to use my RZR repair shop to do the job Airborne.

Also, Big R don’t forget Stacy and Clay did some of the work (Stacy)" Tell Big R I didn’t put any oil in his rear dif "

When changing the sheave the important thing is reinstalling the big nut. If you do not torque it enough you will have a "huge" mess to deal with. I've seen it happen -- not good. The nut basically loosens thus destroying the belt, messing up the bushing, and overheating the bearings. VERY UGLY!!

As for power -- the sheave does not give extra low-end power below 10mph or so. I have a Trinity Racing sheave and the lighter rollers (weights). This increased RPM's and allowed the Rhino to hold a higher RPM going into a hill. This higher rpm is a positive since I now start off at higher rpm and drop down to the torque peak as I near the top of taller hills. The negative is it does consume more fuel and probably is harder on the motor. As for more bottom end -- it can not help below 10mph or so since the belt is at the bottom. No sheave helps below 10mph or so. A stronger spring or lighter rollers will allow the rpm's to build more before the belt shifts up in the curve. As for top-speed I've done 56mph on a flat road but it took a long time to get there. The interesting thing is now my low gear is good to around 40mph -- I wish it was much lower since I really would have liked more power below 10 mph.

Would I recommend a sheave change. Maybe. Truth is that for woods riding, mud riding, or most trail riding in the south it makes no difference. If you like to play on long steep hills then I do recommend it. If you like to rock crawl or just normal trail ride then I'm not sure it's worth it. I see the CDI the same way. The Rhino is most reliable left stock -- I've never heard of a wrist pin failure on a stock CDI, stock sheave Rhino...

My $.02. But as a second note I do want to see Big R's wheelie. Sounds cool!!

Was there hills somewhere that Teryx's could not climb but Rhino's could? I'd like to hear that story. The Teryx has 10+ more hp and should be a better climber unless it's Kawi belt is slipping....

DoddS wrote:

........... (Stacy)" Tell Big R I didn’t put any oil in his rear dif "

Well, I not real sure about Stacy. He might want one of our rhinos to break so he can say " see them rhinos aren't worth a damn"

Dodds, I may just take you up on that offer. If you and Clay and myself can get together on a suitable weekend, then I would be all for it. I would like to try and tackle it sometime this month if at all possible. Valentines Day weekend would honestly be good for me, but I don't know what your all's women folk would think about us playing in the garage that day. It is a holiday weekend for me so I don't have to be in such a hurry. I can ease up that way on Friday, stay with some friends in Versailles, then shoot over on Saturday to mess with the toys. If that sounds like something that would fit, shoot me a PM. If not, it is no big deal.

With all the parts in hand, it only takes about an hour to install the sheave and spring. I just swapped the spring only and it took 2 min. Still waiting on the big brown truck to deliver the rest of the goods.

Okay everybody,

I know you all have read that the sheave gives no bottom end. Also, I am sure that the sheave you put in your rhino made no difference on the bottom end. However, I put in an unleashed UTV sheave that gave me more bottom end. You can really feel the difference if you put it in low and stomp the gas to the floor. The rhino feels like it is going to pop a wheelie. Now I know I am not popping a wheelie but it feels like I have a lower gear.

Now before everybody starts telling me I am full of answer two question for me....

1) have you change your sheave

2) what sheave do you have

If you have not change your sheave then I don't want to hear about what you have read over on some other forum. I want to get to the bottom of this. Because I am not crazy and it does not make any since to me either. The math does not add up. However, my rhino has more bottom end.

R,
Consider this possibility. Maybe your stock sheave had some issue of some kind?? Dry or Dirty rollers, sticky sliders. All possible if it's never been off. There is no mechinical or physical way there would be a difference.
The belt starts at the bottom of the sheave period, Now that you have a nice clean, well-lubed sheave on there, everythings "jumping" better, thus your seat of the pants feeling.
I know when mine gets in need. I can tell by the bottom-end, it's not as "snappy".
If fact I'm gonna pull mine off and service it this week. Just consider it.

ridepate wrote:

R,
Consider this possibility. Maybe your stock sheave had some issue of some kind?? Dry or Dirty rollers, sticky sliders. All possible if it's never been off. There is no mechinical or physical way there would be a difference.
The belt starts at the bottom of the sheave period, Now that you have a nice clean, well-lubed sheave on there, everythings "jumping" better, thus your seat of the pants feeling.
I know when mine gets in need. I can tell by the bottom-end, it's not as "snappy".
If fact I'm gonna pull mine off and service it this week. Just consider it.

There is no way the sheave can be machined to give bottom end? Are you absolutely sure.

Link --> God loves 'em, they must perform miracles. :flower:

I only have the stock one.

I'm absolutley sure about nothing. But that being said. The profile of the ramp, as its called, where the belt actually touches, remains un-changed. Its just the roller-area that allows the belt to travel farther up the "Ramp". I know somewhere, someone has re-machined the ramp area, or tried it, I'm sure.
But think about this. When you buy a sheave, your just replacing half of the primary, in otherwords one side of the "ramp". You cannot just machine one side of the "ramp" and them join it with the other,non-machined side. It wont work.
That would be the only way, IMO, any bottom-end change could occur.

DirtDawber wrote:

Link --> God loves 'em, they must perform miracles. :flower:

DD, you made me spit on the keyboard again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

wvyankee2 wrote:

I only have the stock one.

I know better then that. Which sheave did you buy Yank?

Pate which sheave do you have?

ridepate wrote:

DirtDawber wrote:

Link --> God loves 'em, they must perform miracles. :flower:

DD, you made me spit on the keyboard again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That ant right

Big-R wrote:

I know better then that. Which sheave did you by Yank?

I really have the stock sheave. never touched it. It's Virgin.

wvyankee2 wrote:

Big-R wrote:

I know better then that. Which sheave did you by Yank?

I really have the stock sheave. never touched it. It's Virgin.

I am doing very important research here and you are f-in around

R did you change the spring when you changed the sheave?

HW R...........

I am bringing my sheave with me (new in the box) this weekend. I want you, Clay and Dodds to compare it to the ones you guys put in. If you think about it, bring your stock one so I can take a look at it. I have never been in the CVT of the Rhino.

You must have a spacer R, that will give better B-E.......I just remembered that.

There is no way the sheave can be machined to give bottom end? Are you absolutely sure.

Since the belt is at the bottom the only way to make a change is to add a spacer so the belt "falls" lower. Can't really machine the sheave for that since the sheave still must be ramped or the belt will stick and not climb the sheave. Adding the spacer works but opens up a can of other issues. If your belt was worn and thus narrow then that would work similar to a spacer but would likely loose some low end and want to slip.

http://www.rhinoforums.net/general-rhino-discussion/24105-when-installing-spacer-660-sheave-does-go-then-collar-then-sheave.html

I really do not disagree that you feel like you have more bottom end. The tighter spring will make the belt stay at the bottom longer giving the lower gearing (lower belt in sheave)for a longer time. The real test is climbing a long hill or under load -- below 10mph rolling there should be no difference.

I looked into this and asked alot of people before I choose my sheave and roller combo. There just is not but so much you can do with a Rhino sheave, springs, and belt. Convert it to a dry (slip type/snowmobile type) and it opens up the possibilities for alot more adjustment (and $3000 in cost).

Mine is stock..........

HW here and am just peachy with it no issues and I can still turn my tires when needed(usually) and I can still make it up any hill, for the most part, that I want to there are always some scenarios that MY rhino just cant make it

Big-R -- I just figured it out. Really simple. You do have more bottom end. I know what made the change -- the big nut is loose by 1/2 to 1 turn. That is just enough to make the belt ride lower like a spacer. It's really not an issue until it loosen's another 1/8th of a turn and then all heck breaks loose.....


I'm pulling your leg -- I'm sure everything is fine.

I'll bring my Tow rope to Evarts in case though....

For what it's worth I hesitated making this post. I met you at the stairsteps in WV and just hope you are not the paranoid type. I'd hate to think that you pulled the cover on the belt just to check the big nut again. I'm sure it's fine. Really....

roamerr wrote:

Big-R -- I just figured it out. Really simple. You do have more bottom end. I know what made the change -- the big nut is loose by 1/2 to 1 turn. That is just enough to make the belt ride lower like a spacer. It's really not an issue until it loosen's another 1/8th of a turn and then all heck breaks loose.....


I'm pulling your leg -- I'm sure everything is fine.

I'll bring my Tow rope to Evarts in case though....

For what it's worth I hesitated making this post. I met you at the stairsteps in WV and just hope you are not the paranoid type. I'd hate to think that you pulled the cover on the belt just to check the big nut again. I'm sure it's fine. Really....

I almost left the computer as I read your post. was heading out to the rhino for some wrenching We hit the impact to the nut pretty good. Also, the washer was centered. We are good......


I am going to have Clay compare the two sheaves side x side. I really didn't look at it that close.